4 Harvest Road, Yandina QLD 4561

(07) 5446 8422

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Davey - Salt Water Chlorinators - ChloroMatic

Davey ChloroMatic® Salt Water Chlorinator


The benefits for you

  • Safe for your family

  • Therapeutic, soft water for comfort

  • Cost effective, low power use, low chemical cost

  • User friendly 



  • Maximises the value and enjoyment of your pool. Eziset digital timer for quick and simple set up.

  • Large, easy to read digital display and LED indicators.

  • Models available with reverse polarity electrolytic cells for low maintenance.

  • Large surface area of cell plates for high rate chlorine production.

  • High flow rate cell design for rapid pool turnover.

  • Made with corrosion resistant, UV stabilised materials for long service life.

  • Winter mode setting to reduce sanitiser output during the colder months, saves energy and protects equipment.

  • ‘Low salt’, ‘no flow’ indicators and overload protection.

  • Flow detector stops electrolysis if no flow is present, preventing dangerous gas build-up.

  • Pump ‘cut out’ protects the pump when no water detected (on reverse polarity models).

  • Light transformer available (on some models). Operating salt level: 4500-6000ppm. 




Four Prime rules must be observed if your unit is to give the best possible service:



The importance of pool stabiliser cannot be over – emphasised. It is essential in helping retain chlorine in your pool. Chlorine is rapidly dissipated by sunlight and the use of stabiliser will reduce this dissipation substantially. Without stabiliser, it may be necessary to run the Unit for up to three times as long!

Stabiliser should be added at the rate of 500 grams for every 10,000 litres of water. Stabiliser should be maintained at a level of 30 – 50 ppm. Before adding more stabiliser, have your pool water analysed at your pool shop to ensure that you do not add too much.



A correct pH level must be maintained to prevent problems such as black spot, staining, cloudy water, etc. An incorrect pH level can damage the pool. Correct pH levels are as follows; Fibreglass – 7.2 to 7.4 Concrete & tiled – 7.4 to 7.6 If you allow the pH level to rise to 8.0 or above, the chlorine required could be as much as three times the normal amount.

Total Alkalinity should not be confused with pH, although the two are closely related. Total Alkalinity determines the speed and ease of pH change. It is measured in ppm – the ideal range is 80 – 150 ppm, or refer to your pool professional.

You should use a test kit which includes a test for Total Alkalinity. Low Total Alkalinity can cause unstable pH levels – i.e. An inability to keep the pH constant may cause staining, etching and corrosion of metals. High Total Alkalinity will cause constantly high pH levels.



Salt is the essential element by which your Unit operates. Not enough salt means not enough chlorine - this simple rule governs the total operation of your ChloroMatic®, and insufficient salt will damage your Cell.



Warning: Some people recommend that you put salt directly in the skimmer box. This is a very poor practice as it allows very high concentrations of salt to be passed through your filtration and other pool equipment.


Salt is NOT used up in the process of producing chlorine or by evaporation. Salt is only lost through back - washing, splash - out, overflow or by leakage from the pool or plumbing. Winter rains can dilute the salt solution in your pool; therefore salt levels should be checked during this season. In colder water, the ChloroMatic should be set to Winter Mode. (Refer Winter Mode page 8).

Low salt levels will destroy the coating on the Anode plates and will void all Warranty.

The ChloroMatic® has built in warning indicators to minimise damage resulting from insufficient salt levels, however, the ultimate responsibility is on the owner to ensure adequate salt levels are maintained all year round.



These instructions cover ChloroMatics for residential use only.
If you run your chlorinator for 24 hours a day, or for long periods, the Cell life will be greatly reduced. It is important that the correct model ChloroMatic® has been installed on your pool. Many models are available to cope with small courtyard pools up to commercial applications. (Consult your local ChloroMatic® Dealer for more information).



The ChloroMatic® must be run daily to generate sufficient chlorine to sanitise the pool. During Summer this is approximately eight hours per day, preferably in two periods - between 6.00 and 8.00am and between 5.00 and 11.00pm. Night time is preferable because chlorine dissipates rapidly in direct sunlight. If these running times are observed, and the Cell is functioning correctly, your pool will have sufficient chlorine when tested in the morning.

If the level is too low either longer running times are required or the Sanitiser Output Control needs to be adjusted to maximum. Harsh local conditions such as traffic pollution or windborne dust require different running times, in which case, seek advice from your pool shop. During Winter approximately 4 to 6 hours a day should provide enough chlorine. Without sufficient filtration/chlorination, your pool will never function correctly. ALWAYS RUN THE FILTER WHEN SWIMMING IN THE POOL. In extremely hot weather or during periods of heavy bathing loads, the running time may need to be extended to 10 - 14 hours per day.

In some cases you may find your chlorine level to be too high. To determine if this is the case, run your filter/ chlorinator for the suggested times/chlorine production level and test your pool water on the morning after operation. If your chlorine test shows a high level of chlorine, either the running times can be reduced slightly, or the Sanitiser Output Control can be turned anti - clockwise. Test your chlorine level again the following morning at around the same time. If your chlorine level is still high, repeat the above process until the correct level is attained.



Periodically, especially during extremely hot conditions, it may be necessary to boost the amount of chlorine in your pool in order to maintain absolute sanitation of the water. This can be achieved by adding either liquid or granulated chlorine. If granulated chlorine is added, the Cell must be checked regularly, since the additives from this product will clog the electrodes. Alternatively, extend the running time of your ChloroMatic®.


WARNING: Follow safety instructions provided with the Hydrochloric Acid or cleaning solution. When handling Hydrochloric Acid, the use of eye protection, mask and gloves are highly recommended. Extreme caution should be taken whenever handling Hydrochloric Acid or Cell Cleaning Solution. 



No Chlorine Production - Check for


1. Main power outlet switched off
2. Chlorinator not plugged into main outlet
3. Pump not plugged into Chlorinator
4. Time Clock set to Off position/Power switch turned Off 5. Sanitiser Output Control turned to lowest setting
6. Chlorinator fuse blown
7. Dirty Cell
8. Filter needs backwashing
9. Gas Sensor not connected
10. Running times incorrect
11. Main house fuse blown
12. Pump motor faulty 


Low Chlorine Production - Check for


1. Dirty Cell - clean if required
2. Filter needs backwashing
3. Display not at correct production level/Cell failing 4. Winter Mode turned On
5. Pool stabiliser too low
6. pH too high
7. Salt level too low
8. Chloromatic running time inadequate
9. Sanitiser output control set too low